Patios and paving
We dig out to around 150mm, lay and compact a Type 1 sub-base, then bed slabs on a full mortar bed rather than dabs, so nothing rocks or sinks. Joints are finished with a brush-in compound or pointed mortar.
Landscaping services · Ipswich
Every part of a garden build, explained: what is involved, what it is made from, and what to expect while we are on site.
Good landscaping follows a fixed order. Levels and drainage come first, then the hard surfaces, then lawns and planting. Skipping ahead is how patios end up sinking and lawns end up waterlogged. Every quote we give for landscaping in Ipswich is built around that order, so you can see where the time and money go.
Below is what each service involves. If you would rather talk it through, our Ipswich landscaper team can visit, look at the garden and suggest what is worth doing first.
Hard landscaping is everything built: patios, paths, walls, steps, fencing and decking. Soft landscaping is everything that grows: lawns, borders, hedges and trees. Most gardens need both, and the best results come when they are planned together, so borders soften the edges of a patio and paths lead somewhere useful.
All of our landscaping in Ipswich is priced from a site visit. We measure the garden, check levels and soil, and write a quote that breaks the job into stages, so you can see what each part costs and decide where to spend.
We dig out to around 150mm, lay and compact a Type 1 sub-base, then bed slabs on a full mortar bed rather than dabs, so nothing rocks or sinks. Joints are finished with a brush-in compound or pointed mortar.
For real turf we strip, level and add screened topsoil before laying. For artificial grass we use a compacted aggregate base with a weed membrane, so it drains as fast as the ground beneath it.
Posts are set in concrete to a depth that suits the panel height and the soil. On sandy ground near Kesgrave and Martlesham we go deeper, because loose soil gives posts less grip.
Frames are built from treated joists on ground screws or concrete pads, with enough clearance for air to move underneath. We fit softwood or composite boards with hidden or face fixings.
Brick, block and sleeper walls with drainage behind them, so water pressure does not push them over. Steps are built to even, comfortable rises.
Soakaways, French drains and channel drains for gardens that flood or stay boggy, which is common on the heavier clay to the north and west of town.
Every patio, path and driveway sits on a layer of crushed stone, known as MOT Type 1, compacted in layers with a vibrating plate. For a garden patio this is usually 100 to 150mm deep. On soft clay we may add a geotextile membrane underneath to stop the sub-base sinking into the soil over time. Cutting corners here is the most common reason patios fail.
A patio should never be perfectly flat. We lay it with a gentle fall, typically around 1 in 60, running away from the house, so rain runs off instead of pooling or soaking into walls. Where a patio meets the house, we keep it at least 150mm below the damp-proof course.
New turf only roots well into loose, level, fertile soil. We remove the old lawn, cultivate the ground, take out stones and roots, add screened topsoil where needed, then level and firm the surface before laying. Turf needs watering daily for the first couple of weeks, and we leave clear instructions.
Artificial grass looks cheap when it is laid on soil or sand alone, because the surface ripples and weeds come through. We excavate, lay a weed membrane, add a compacted aggregate base and a fine levelling layer, then fix the grass to a secure edge so it stays flat and drains freely.
Gardens on the edge of town and near the Orwell estuary can catch strong winds. In exposed spots we recommend concrete posts and gravel boards, or slatted designs that let some wind through and are less likely to blow over.
East Suffolk is one of the driest parts of the UK. We favour plants that cope with dry spells once established, such as lavender, salvias, ornamental grasses and Mediterranean shrubs, and mulch borders to hold moisture. On clay we choose plants that also tolerate wet winters.
| Material | Look | Upkeep | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Indian sandstone | Natural, varied colour | Clean once a year; can weather | Traditional and cottage gardens |
| Porcelain | Crisp, uniform finish | Very low; stain resistant | Modern gardens and outdoor kitchens |
| Block paving | Small units, many patterns | Re-sand joints every few years | Paths, driveways and busy areas |
| Gravel | Informal and soft | Rake and top up occasionally | Lower budgets and free-draining paths |
We dig and compact to the depth each surface needs, not the minimum we can get away with.
Timber rated for ground contact, frost-resistant paving and fixings that will not rust.
Water routes are planned before anything is laid, not added after the first flood.
We photograph the groundwork stage of every job, so you can see what is underneath.
Old paving, turf and plants are removed and the new layout is marked on the ground.
We dig to depth, set falls and fit any drains before anything is laid.
Patios, paths, walls and fencing go in while the ground is still open.
Topsoil, turf and plants go in last, so nothing gets trampled.
These are some of the most common jobs we carry out in Ipswich, and what they usually involve.
We take on landscaping jobs throughout Ipswich and the villages around it.
A new lawn or fence line is often one to three days. A full rebuild with a patio, walls, turf and planting usually takes two to four weeks, depending on size and access. You get a schedule with your quote.
Porcelain is harder wearing, stain resistant and close to maintenance free, but it costs more and needs a primer to bond to the mortar bed. Sandstone costs less and has natural colour variation, but it weathers and needs occasional cleaning. We bring samples to the site visit.
Often, yes. On Ipswich's heavier clay soils the usual fixes are a soakaway, a French drain along the low side, or raising the lawn with free-draining topsoil. We check where the water collects before suggesting anything.
Yes. If you have a plan from a garden designer or a sketch of your own, we will price from it and suggest changes only where the ground or drainage needs them.
Hard landscaping is the built structure of a garden, such as patios, paths, walls, fencing and decking. Soft landscaping is the living part, such as lawns, plants, hedges and trees. Most projects include both.
We lay block-paved and gravel paths and smaller driveway areas as part of garden projects. Driveways need a deeper sub-base than patios because they carry vehicles, and front driveways over 5 square metres must be permeable or drain to a soft area.
New turf looks green from the day it is laid, but it needs two to three weeks of regular watering to root in. Keep heavy use off it during that time. Artificial grass can be used straight away.
We can clear shrubs, hedges and small trees as part of a project. Larger trees, and any tree under a preservation order or in a conservation area, need a qualified tree surgeon and sometimes council consent. We will tell you if this applies.
Send us the basics and we will book a free site visit to measure and price the work.